Friday, April 29, 2011

Backwaters Houseboat Tour in Kerala


Following a rather uneventful overnight train ride from Chennai, our driver cheerfully met us and quickly took us to the spot in Aleppy where our houseboat was waiting. Our houseboat was fancier than the first one I had taken, with this one having AC in both bedrooms (each with their own bathroom), a mini upper deck, and even a dish for satellite TV. A few of the houseboats were quite massive, accommodating around 200 people on the top level – perfect for parties. Once in the backwaters, welcoming coconut drink in hand, the pace became relaxed, with plenty of time for gazing at rural life along the riverbanks and river as source of transportation.


Aside from the boat motor hum, the sound echoing through the area was that of beating clothes. Both men and women engaged in this activity, lathering up the cloth in the river, wringing it out and beating it mercilessly on a big rock. Likewise, the river was a favorite place to bathe, with the soap and shampoo disappearing after some successive dunks in the water.

Although the touristic houseboats dominated the water scene, the waterways were shared by locals. People rowed across the river, ferrying passengers, beverages, and cattle feed. Larger water taxis sped by, transporting people to various villages. Along the shore and in small boats, men went fishing with a pole and/or string or threw out small nets into the water. On the narrow shore, motorbikes and bicycles were the favored means of transportation.

Pampered for a day, all we needed to do was enjoy the view, take photos, chat, and eat the food prepared for us. In the back of the boat, meals were prepared for us, including fried fish, coconut-flavored dahl, beets (also with coconut milk), green beans, chai, and fried banana. With the plentitude of coconut palms and banana plants, as well as fish in the river, our tasty meals made us feel part of the locality.

Poking through the green fronds of palm trees were variations of Kerala’s distinctive architecture. Many of the slanted roofs were covered in terracotta tiles and trimmed with decorative wood. In addition to some colorful Hindu temples, the backwaters included many Christian churches and schools. While most of the churches lacked steeples attached to the roof, they all proudly displayed the Cross. On buildings, walls, and even tree trunks, one could find political posters (accompanied by political announcements shouted through speakers), vivid reminders of the upcoming elections.

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